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What it works on and why it differs from AHA
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid and dissolves in fats. This single feature explains everything else: the preparation does not stay on the surface, it penetrates the gland openings filled with sebum. AHA acids, such as mandelic or glycolic, dissolve in water and work mainly on the stratum corneum.
Keratolytic
Loosens the connections between cells of the stratum corneum and clears the gland openings.
Comedolytic
Works on open and closed blackheads, at the source of where they form.
Anti-inflammatory
Calms the reaction around the lesions, which is why the skin tends to be calmer after a series.
Antibacterial
Reduces the conditions that favour bacteria multiplying in the gland openings.
For seborrhoea
Reduces the tendency to oiliness, especially in the T-zone.
For texture
Evens out the surface of the skin and reduces the visibility of enlarged pores.
Who it suits and who it does not
Usually a good choice
Oily and seborrhoeic skin that becomes greasy during the day.
Open and closed blackheads, especially in the T-zone.
Enlarged gland openings and uneven texture.
Acne lesions without significant inflammation, after assessment by a cosmetologist.
Skin on the back and decolletage prone to breakouts, over a limited area.
We usually suggest something else
Dry, dehydrated, and atopic skin. The acid increases dryness instead of helping.
Active pustular lesions and pronounced inflammation. Calming down comes first, then the peel.
Rosacea in a flare. That is a matter for a doctor.
Salicylate allergy, including intolerance to painkillers.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding, regardless of concentration and area.
For dry and sensitive skin, a gentler choice can be mandelic acid, and for blemishes with marks left behind, azelaic acid.
How the treatment goes
A characteristic feature of this acid is the white frosting that appears on the skin during the treatment. This is the preparation crystallising, not a burn. The person performing the treatment watches for it, as it helps assess how evenly it has been applied.
How often and how many sessions
A typical series is four to six treatments, two to four weeks apart. With pronounced seborrhoea the intervals can be shorter, with reactive skin longer. The treatment is not carried out more often than every two weeks, as the skin needs time to rebuild its barrier.
The first changes usually concern oiliness and the number of blackheads, and become visible after two to three sessions. Working on marks left by inflammatory lesions takes the whole series, and sometimes combined therapy with other methods.
What to combine it with, and what not to
Retinoids
We stop it before the series and return to it once agreed with the cosmetologist. Together with salicylic acid it causes excessive drying.
Benzoyl peroxide
Popular in acne skincare, but combined with the peel it increases irritation. For the duration of the series we agree on when and whether to use it.
Other exfoliating acids
We do not combine two stimuli. Acids from your home skincare are set aside for the duration of the series.
Hyaluronic acid and moisturising
Recommended. Skin after exfoliation needs its barrier rebuilt, and moisturising does not weaken the effect of the peel.
Niacinamide
Usually well tolerated and can be used alongside it, once the order in the routine has been agreed.
Sunscreen
A compulsory element, not an optional extra. Without it, the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation increases.
After the treatment and side effects
Immediately after the treatment the skin can be red, tight and dry. Slight peeling usually appears between the second and fifth day and is more noticeable than after mandelic acid. We do not pick at the flakes, as this is exactly how post-inflammatory pigmentation forms, which is precisely what we want to avoid.
A high factor sun filter throughout the whole series, including in winter. Skin after exfoliation is more sensitive to UV radiation.
We do not use salicylic acid on large areas of the body or on children, because absorption of salicylates through the skin has systemic significance. In the practice we work on a limited area and at a controlled concentration.
If you experience pronounced stinging, swelling, blisters, or ringing in the ears or dizziness, report it immediately on +48 881 202 202.
Contraindications
The full list for all acids, together with photosensitising medicines and the break needed after oral vitamin A derivative therapy, is on the acid peels page.
The questions we are asked most often
What is salicylic acid good for?
For oily, seborrhoeic skin prone to blackheads. It is fat soluble, so it penetrates the openings of the sebaceous glands and works right where the problem begins. It has keratolytic, comedolytic, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects.
When should salicylic acid not be used?
During pregnancy and breastfeeding, with a salicylate allergy, on wounds, with active cold sores, and during a rosacea flare. Dry and atopic skin usually tolerates it poorly. It is also not used on large areas of the body or on children.
How long before you see results?
A change in oiliness and the number of blackheads can be visible after two to three sessions. Marks left by inflammatory lesions fade more slowly and need the whole series, and sometimes combined therapy. After the first visit, the skin tends mainly to look more matte.
Does the skin peel after salicylic acid?
Usually yes, slight peeling appears between the second and fifth day and is more noticeable than after mandelic acid. Do not pick at the flakes and do not scrub the skin, as this is how post-inflammatory pigmentation forms. Moisturising and a barrier preparation help instead.
Can salicylic acid be used every day?
Not in the practice. The treatment is carried out in a series of four to six sessions every two to four weeks. A home cosmetic with a low concentration can be used more often, but the frequency is set by the cosmetologist, and it is usually paused during the series.
How many times a week can salicylic acid be used at home?
That depends on the concentration of the preparation and the skin's tolerance, usually two to three times a week, in the evening. Daily use most often ends in dryness and a paradoxical increase in seborrhoea, as the skin defends itself against over-drying.
What should not be combined with salicylic acid?
Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and other exfoliating acids at the same time. Hyaluronic acid, moisturising and barrier preparations are recommended, as they support the skin's recovery after the treatment.
What are the side effects?
Most often redness, a feeling of tightness, dryness and peeling. Less often irritation and post-inflammatory pigmentation when there is no photoprotection. General symptoms, such as ringing in the ears or dizziness, are very rare and are linked to using the acid on large areas, which is why in the practice we work on a limited area.
Will it help with rosacea?
This is not the first choice for this condition, and the treatment is contraindicated during a flare up. Rosacea is diagnosed and managed by a doctor. For skin with visible vessels we more often reach for azelaic acid, after a cosmetologist's assessment.
How much does the treatment cost?
The price depends on the area, meaning the face, back or decolletage, and on the number of sessions. Current amounts are given in the cosmetology treatment price list, and we discuss the cost of the whole course at the consultation, before the first treatment.
Before you decide
Consultation with a cosmetologist
Salicylic acid is a good choice for one group of skin types and a poor one for another. At the consultation we check which side you are on, and we say directly if another acid or a completely different approach would be better. The conversation does not commit you to having the treatment. A consultation with an aesthetic medicine doctor is charged according to the price list, as is preparing a home care plan.
This material is for information and does not replace a consultation or an assessment of suitability for the treatment.