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Composition and what each ingredient does
The classic Jessner formula contains three substances, each with a different point of action. This is why the preparation works more broadly than a peel with a single acid.
Salicylic acid
A beta-hydroxy acid soluble in fats. It has a keratolytic and antibacterial action, penetrating the openings of the sebaceous glands and loosening blocked pores.
Lactic acid
An alpha-hydroxy acid with an exfoliating and moisturising action. It breaks the connections between corneocytes and reduces the thickness of the keratinised stratum corneum.
Resorcinol
A keratolytic ingredient, structurally and chemically similar to phenol. It breaks weak hydrogen bonds in keratin and leads to protein denaturation and cell exfoliation. It is this ingredient that allows the blend to reach deeper than a superficial peel, and it requires separate attention during qualification.
Ethanol base
In the classic formula, all three substances are present at a concentration of 14 per cent in ethanol. The preparation neutralises itself as it evaporates, so it does not need to be removed with a neutraliser.
The combined effect is keratolytic and antibacterial, while also loosening the cohesion of the stratum corneum. How the same acids work separately is described in the acids section on the acid peels page.
Why the number of layers determines the depth
For most peels, the strength of the treatment is determined by the acid concentration and the contact time with the skin. Here a third variable is added, more important than the others: the number of layers of preparation applied in sequence.
Fewer layers
Superficial action, on the stratum corneum of the epidermis. A milder reaction and a shorter time for the skin to return to its baseline condition.
More layers
Medium-depth action. More visible peeling, possible temporary whitening of the skin during the treatment, and a longer recovery.
The upper limit is three layers, and we do not exceed it regardless of the skin's reaction. The number of layers is set by the cosmetologist during the treatment, by observing the skin, not in advance. At the first treatment, we work more cautiously to check tolerance. For this reason, we do not state the number of layers before the skin assessment, and two treatments with the same preparation may differ from each other.
The question about resorcinol
This is one thing worth clarifying before the treatment, because it concerns safety, not preference.
We work with the classic formula, with resorcinol. There are also modified formulas in which it is replaced with citric acid or glycolic acid, specifically for people who react to this ingredient.
Resorcinol is structurally and chemically similar to phenol and can cause allergic reactions. Report any previous reaction to this ingredient, including from hair dyes, where it can also be present. If such a reaction has occurred, we will select a different peel.
Who it suits and who it does not
Often chosen
Oily and combination skin with blackheads and blocked pores.
Uneven texture and roughness of the skin's surface.
Superficial pigmentation and uneven skin tone.
Skin that has stopped responding to milder superficial peels.
Probably not here
First contact with peels. It usually starts with a milder acid.
Fresh suntan and planned intensive sun exposure.
A previous allergic reaction to resorcinol, including from hair dyes.
No possibility of maintaining photoprotection and gentle care during the peeling days.
Darker phototype. This peel is chosen mainly for phototypes one to three, because with darker skin the risk of post-treatment pigmentation increases.
At first contact with acids, a milder starting point can be mandelic acid, and for oily skin with acne lesions, salicylic acid on its own, which is one of the ingredients in this blend.
Exfoliation and post-treatment recommendations
Peeling here is usually more pronounced than after single-acid superficial peels and most often appears within a few days of the treatment. With more layers, the skin can also be more red and tight.
Peeling usually starts on the third or fourth day after the treatment and is more pronounced than after single-acid peels.
The interval between treatments is usually one and a half to two months. It is set by the cosmetologist after assessing how the skin tolerated the previous treatment.
No picking at the flakes and no exfoliating products until the skin has finished rebuilding.
Daily high UV filter and avoiding sun exposure, sauna and swimming pool.
If redness, swelling or soreness is severe, contact the practice.
Flakes of peeling skin must not be picked off. With a peel that reaches deeper than superficial, removing them early increases the risk of post-treatment pigmentation, especially with a darker phototype.
Contraindications
The full list for all acids, together with photosensitising medicines and the break needed after oral vitamin A derivative therapy, is on the acid peels page.
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NL Clinic, Katowice
How the content is created
Last updated
13 August 2026
This material is for information only and does not replace a consultation or a qualification assessment.
The questions we are asked most often
How does the Jessner peel differ from a single-acid peel?
It is a blend of several substances that work through different mechanisms at once: keratolytic, antibacterial and supporting cohesion of the stratum corneum. The second difference is the dosing method: depth is set by the number of layers applied, so the same preparation can be either a superficial or a medium-depth peel.
How many layers of the preparation are applied?
The number of layers is decided by the cosmetologist during the treatment, based on how the skin reacts, not set in advance. At the first treatment, the approach is usually more cautious, to check tolerance. We do not give a number of layers before assessing the skin.
Does the skin peel after a Jessner peel?
Usually yes, and more noticeably than after single-acid superficial peels. Peeling most often appears within a few days of the treatment. The flakes must not be picked off. With more layers, temporary whitening of the skin can appear during the treatment.
Does the Jessner peel contain resorcinol?
Yes. We work with the classic formula, where alongside salicylic acid and lactic acid there is resorcinol, each at a concentration of 14 percent, in an ethanol base. Modified formulas exist, where resorcinol is replaced with citric or glycolic acid. If you have ever had an allergic reaction to resorcinol, mention it before the treatment, because then we will choose a different peel.
Can the treatment be done in summer?
For a peel with an effect reaching deeper than superficial, the time of year matters. Fresh suntan and planned intensive sun exposure are grounds for postponing the treatment, and after the treatment consistent photoprotection is essential, without which the risk of post-treatment pigmentation increases.
Is this a first-time treatment with acids?
Usually not. At first contact with peels, it is more common to start with a milder acid, to check the skin's reaction. The Jessner peel is often a next step when milder protocols do not give the intended result.
The content is for information. It does not replace a consultation, an examination or an individual assessment.