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Cosmetology, Katowice

PRO XN, xanthohumol complex

Xanthohumol is a plant compound with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Its weakness in cosmetics was limited bioavailability, so in these preparations it is enclosed in a cyclodextrin molecule.

The strongest application of this method is supporting the skin after treatments that deliberately trigger a controlled inflammatory response. Below are the mechanisms, the three treatment grades, the limits of the method, and what belongs to a doctor, not to a cosmetology practice.

Who carries it out

A cosmetologist, after assessing the skin at a consultation.

How long it takes

The first treatment about 60 minutes.

Anaesthesia

Anaesthetic ointment for comfort.

After the treatment

Temporary swelling, tenderness and redness are possible. With the grades that include needling, the reaction is more pronounced.

Let us start with the boundary

Psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema and rosacea are diseases. Their treatment is led by a doctor, most often a dermatologist, and no cosmetology treatment replaces that.

With these diagnoses, the treatment can only be supportive care, aimed at skin comfort and its barrier, carried out in agreement with the treating doctor and only on skin without a flare-up.

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Treatment set with xanthohumol ampoules at NL Clinic in Katowice.

What xanthohumol is and the stabilisation technology

Xanthohumol is a compound of plant origin, described as a strong antioxidant with anti-inflammatory action. The problem with its use in cosmetics was its limited bioavailability, meaning the difficulty of delivering it to the skin in an active form.

The manufacturer solved this by enclosing xanthohumol in a cyclodextrin molecule, which is said to allow it to be delivered to deeper layers of the skin. In the preparations, xanthohumol appears together with other active ingredients, including vitamin C, lactoferrin, coenzyme Q10, niacinamide and tranexamic acid.

Information about the composition and technology comes from the manufacturer's materials. We do not carry over claims of many times greater efficacy than other antioxidants, because such a comparison requires citing the study, its conditions and the effect size.

Described mechanisms of action

Below are the mechanisms attributed to xanthohumol in the product materials. This is a description of the ingredient's direction of action, not a promise of a treatment effect for a specific person.

Antioxidant action

Neutralising free radicals that form in the skin under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, pollution and stress, and that can damage proteins, lipids and cell DNA.

Anti inflammatory effect

Influence on signalling pathways that control the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including the NF-kappa B pathway. This is said to limit redness, swelling and irritation.

Influence on metalloproteinases

Inhibiting the activity of MMP-1 and MMP-8, enzymes that break down collagen. Excessive activity of these enzymes accelerates the loss of skin firmness.

Action on skin tone

Influence on melanogenesis pathways, meaning melanin formation, which is said to support an even skin tone and reduce the visibility of pigmentation.

Antimicrobial action

Reducing the number of microorganisms on the surface of the skin, which in the product materials is linked to supporting skin with inflammatory lesions.

Main application: after remodelling treatments

Some treatments work precisely by triggering a controlled inflammatory response, to stimulate the skin to produce collagen and rebuild itself. This is how microneedling mesotherapy, RF microneedling and laser therapy work.

This is where the xanthohumol preparation has its clearest role: not to remove that inflammatory response, because it is the aim of the treatment, but to stabilise it and support the rebuilding of the epidermal barrier. For the same reason, in the price list PRO XN appears in combinations with microneedling and with microneedling mesotherapy, and not only on its own.

The order matters here and is set by the cosmetologist. Not every preparation is suitable for use directly after a treatment that breaches the skin barrier.

Three treatment grades

In the price list, the treatment comes in three grades. The difference is whether the preparation works alone or together with a method that breaches the epidermis.

First grade

The care protocol alone, without breaching the epidermis. The mildest variant, considered as support for the skin barrier and an introduction to the therapy.

Second grade, with microneedling

A protocol combined with microneedling, which makes it easier to introduce the ingredients and itself stimulates the skin to rebuild.

Third grade, with microneedling mesotherapy

A protocol combined with microneedling mesotherapy. The deepest work and the clearest skin reaction after the treatment.

The higher the level, the deeper we work and the clearer the skin reaction after the treatment. The level is selected by the cosmetologist after assessing the skin, not by the patient when booking.

Skin with a chronic condition: what we can and cannot do

People with psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema or rosacea often look for care that will not aggravate their skin condition. This is reasonable, and cosmetology has its place here. The boundary, however, is clear.

Belongs to the practice

Supportive care, focused on skin comfort and barrier repair.

Selecting products that do not aggravate the skin condition.

Support for regeneration after treatments performed at the clinic.

Belongs to the doctor

Diagnosing the skin disease and treating it.

Pharmacotherapy and decisions on changing or discontinuing it.

Managing flare-ups. We do not perform the treatment during a flare-up.

If you come to us with a diagnosed skin disease, tell us about it and about any medicines you are taking at the consultation. Some products and some treatments are then excluded, and we set the plan so that it does not interfere with your treatment.

What this treatment will not do

It will not cure a skin disease and will not replace treatment provided by a doctor.

It will not replace sunscreen. Antioxidants limit the effects of oxidative stress, but they do not block ultraviolet radiation.

It is not a volumising or tightening treatment. It works on the condition and barrier of the skin, not on supporting it.

It will not work as a one-off, separate from home care, because rebuilding the skin barrier requires continuity.

Assessment and after the treatment

The treatment is preceded by a skin assessment and interview. We do not give the number of sessions or the degree of improvement before qualification, as these depend on the condition of the skin, the chosen treatment level and home care.

Temporary swelling, tenderness and redness may occur after the treatment. With levels that include microneedling, the reaction is more pronounced, and the recommendations appropriate for treatments that breach the continuity of the epidermis apply, including photoprotection. Recommendations for the following days are given by the cosmetologist after the treatment.

Editorial responsibility

Responsible for the content

NL Clinic, Katowice

How the content is created

Editorial principles

Last updated

24 August 2026

This material is for information purposes only and does not replace a consultation, examination or treatment provided by a doctor.

The questions we are asked most often

Does PRO XN treat psoriasis, atopic dermatitis or rosacea?

No. Psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema and rosacea are diseases, and their treatment is led by a doctor, most often a dermatologist. The cosmetology treatment can be supportive care, focused on comfort and the skin barrier, and it does not replace treatment or remove the need for check-ups with a doctor.

What is xanthohumol?

It is a plant derived compound with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Its problem in cosmetics was limited bioavailability, so in PRO XN products it is enclosed in a cyclodextrin molecule, which is intended to improve its delivery to the skin.

What is this treatment best suited to?

To supporting the skin after treatments that deliberately trigger a controlled inflammatory response, that is after microneedling mesotherapy, microneedling RF and laser therapy. The product is aimed at stabilising this reaction and rebuilding the skin barrier, so it is often an element of a plan rather than a treatment in its own right.

What is the difference between the three treatment levels?

The first level is the care protocol alone. The second combines it with microneedling, and the third with microneedling mesotherapy. The higher the level, the deeper we work and the greater the skin reaction. The level is selected by the cosmetologist after assessing the skin.

How long does the treatment take and is it painful?

The first treatment takes about 60 minutes. For comfort, we apply anaesthetic cream. Temporary swelling, tenderness and redness may occur after the treatment, and with levels that include needling, the skin reaction is more pronounced.

Will the product replace sunscreen?

No. Antioxidant action is not the same as sun protection. Antioxidants limit the effects of oxidative stress, but they do not block ultraviolet radiation, so daily photoprotection remains essential.

The content is informational in nature. It does not replace a consultation, examination or treatment carried out by a doctor.

Treatments we combine with

Let's choose the right treatment together

PRO XN most often supports other treatments, so below are the ones it is often carried out with as part of one plan.

Microneedle mesotherapy Microneedling, the most common combination with PRO XN. See how the treatment goes
Microneedling RF Radio frequency delivered with needles, a remodelling treatment. See how the treatment goes
PRX-T33 Needle-free biorevitalisation, a different route to skin remodelling. See how the treatment goes
Cosmetology consultation Skin assessment and planning. Free of charge. See what it looks like
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