Cosmetology
Which chemical peel for which skin
The question is usually “which acid is best”, and the answer does not start with the name of the substance. It starts with the aim, with the tolerance of the skin and with the risk that may be taken in a given case. The name of the acid is the result of these findings.
Published on 14 July 2020. Last verified on 23 August 2026.
Category
Cosmetology
Leads to
Starting point
Assessment of the skin's condition
Verification
23 August 2026
What the acid does to the skin
The treatment involves exfoliating the superficial layers of the skin with an active substance. The acid loosens the intercellular connections in the epidermis, causing the keratinised layer of cells to be exfoliated. Hence the treatment's other name, exfoliation.
Some substances, for example alpha hydroxy acids, work mainly on exfoliation. Others act on the pigment formation pathway or as antioxidants and do not exfoliate at all, although everyday language calls them by the same name. This difference matters more than whether the acid comes from natural sources or from synthesis: for the skin, the molecule is the same.
A description of individual substances, with their mechanism and indications, is available on the acid peels page. This article covers how the choice between them is made.
Four questions that determine the choice
First, the goal. Working on skin tone, on imperfections and on texture leads in different directions. If the goal is one thing and the selection matches another, the treatment will be technically correct and ineffective against the problem.
Second, the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation. With darker skin tones and a tendency towards pigmentation after inflammatory conditions, more cautious exfoliation is the rule, not a choice. This risk determines the depth more than the patient's expectations.
Third, skin tolerance. Thin, sensitive skin, or skin with a tendency to visible vessels reacts differently to thick, oily skin. The first treatment in a series is therefore often gentler, to see the reaction before the target intensity is established.
Fourth, the season and lifestyle. Deeper exfoliation is planned for months with lower sun exposure, and if sun exposure is planned, the treatment is postponed. Separately, what matters is how many days of visible flaking the patient can accept. We have described the rules for working with acids in summer in the article about acids in summer.
What gets in the way, and which direction the choice goes
Below are directions, not prescriptions. The specific substance and concentration are determined by the practitioner after assessing the skin.
Blackheads, oily skin
Substances with keratolytic and comedolytic action, working at the gland openings. With active inflammatory lesions, the treatment is often postponed until the condition settles.
Post-inflammatory and post-acne pigmentation
Superficial exfoliation carried out cautiously, often combined with substances acting on pigment formation. The condition is photoprotection maintained throughout the whole series.
Melasma and resistant pigmentation
A depigmenting direction, not deeper exfoliation. A treatment that is too aggressive can worsen the condition, which is why caution is greater than usual with this diagnosis.
Uneven texture, keratinisation disorders
Alpha hydroxy acids with concentration and depth matched to the skin's tolerance, carried out in a series, to work gradually.
Sensitive, thin skin, with a tendency to visible vessels
Substances with a gentler profile and lower intensity. The first treatment serves to check the reaction, not to achieve the target level of exfoliation.
Skin before a laser treatment
The order is determined separately, because freshly exfoliated skin has different tolerance. The timing is decided by the plan for the whole course of treatment, not by appointment availability.
Four beliefs worth correcting
The stronger the flaking, the better the result. Visible flaking is not a measure of effectiveness. Exfoliation that is too strong can damage the skin, cause blisters, pigmentation, and in extreme cases scarring.
Acids only for winter. Some substances are also used in the summer season, with photoprotection maintained. The season limits the depth of the treatment, it does not rule out the whole method.
A peel at home is the same thing, just cheaper. Clinic preparations have different concentrations and different pH, and the treatment requires control of exposure time and neutralisation. Using such preparations on your own is the most common cause of complications after exfoliation.
One treatment is enough. Peels are carried out in a series, in the rhythm of epidermal renewal. A single treatment gives a refresh, but does not change what requires work over time.
When we do not carry out the treatment
The list of contraindications is part of the qualification, not a formality before the treatment. These include:
- a tendency to form keloid scars,
- current use of retinoids,
- hypersensitivity to substances used during the treatment,
- numerous pigmented naevi in the treatment area,
- pregnancy and breastfeeding,
- active skin disease, for example fungal infection, psoriasis, active herpes,
- irritation of the skin in the area of the planned treatment,
- current antibiotic therapy.
With numerous pigmented naevi, or with a lesion that has changed in appearance, the order is different: first a medical assessment of the lesion, then a conversation about the treatment. We write about this on the concerning naevus page.
Series, intervals and season
Usually 3 to 6 treatments are planned, at intervals of around 3 to 4 weeks. The interval corresponds to the rhythm of epidermal renewal, described in the article about treatments in series. The plan is set after the first treatment, once it is clear how the skin has reacted.
Photoprotection applies after every treatment, including in winter. Without it, work on skin tone has no lasting effect, as we write about in factors that accelerate skin ageing.
Further on the site
- Description of substances and indications: acid peels.
- If the topic is acne: acne-prone skin.
- If the topic is skin tone: skin pigmentation.
- Prices: cosmetology price list.
- Booking a visit: cosmetology consultation or online booking.
The questions we are asked most often
What determines which acid is selected
On the goal of the treatment, the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation, the skin's tolerance to exfoliation, and the season. The name of the acid is the result of these four factors, not the starting point. A description of individual substances is available on the acid peels page.
Can an acid peel be done during pregnancy
Pregnancy and breastfeeding are listed among the contraindications for the treatment, so we do not carry out a peel during this time. Care is then limited to a home routine agreed during the consultation.
Does stronger exfoliation give a better result
No. Excessive exfoliation can damage the skin, cause blistering, pigmentation and, in extreme cases, scarring. Depth is matched to the skin's tolerance, and visible peeling is not a measure of how effective the treatment is.
How many treatments does a course include
Usually 3 to 6 treatments, spaced about 3 to 4 weeks apart. The interval matches the rhythm of epidermal renewal, and the specialist in charge sets the exact plan after assessing the skin's reaction to the first treatment.
Is an at-home acid peel the same thing, just cheaper
No. In-clinic preparations have different concentrations and different pH levels, and the treatment requires controlling exposure time and neutralisation. Using such preparations on your own is the most common cause of complications after exfoliation.
Do you need to stop retinoids before the treatment
Current use of retinoids is a contraindication for the treatment, so the date to stop them is agreed before the peel is scheduled. This applies both to preparations prescribed by a doctor and to cosmetics containing vitamin A derivatives.
What the research says
Two reviews that explain why choosing the right depth matters more than choosing the name of the acid.
A review describing exfoliation as the controlled action of a substance to a set depth of the skin, with a predictable and even thickness of exfoliation. The practical conclusion follows: what matters in the selection is the depth, not the name of the substance itself.
Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A practical approach to chemical peels: a review of fundamentals and step-by-step algorithmic protocol for treatment. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2018;11(8):21-28.
A review that classified peels by depth of action into superficial, medium-depth and deep. The authors point out that depth is linked both to the extent of the change and to longer healing and a higher risk of complications. This is the basis for the statement that stronger exfoliation does not mean better.
Rendon MI, Berson DS, Cohen JL, Roberts WE, Starker I, Wang B. Evidence and considerations in the application of chemical peels in skin disorders and aesthetic resurfacing. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology. 2010;3(7):32-43.
Sources
Literature for the exfoliation mechanism and for the link between treatment depth and the risk of complications is given in the section What the research says.
About this text
This text was prepared by the NL Clinic team. Published on 14 July 2020, verified on 23 August 2026.
The content is for information and does not replace a consultation.
Cosmetology consultation
At the consultation we establish the goal, assess the skin's tolerance and choose the depth of the treatment. If a peel is not the right step at a given time, we say so before the course, not during it.